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Geometric
Designs accepts Paypal at
phoenix2@uplink.net
or you can order by credit card
by calling
570-457-2691.
Shipping is an additional
charge based on weight and calculated at the time of purchase.
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A Bloody
Mess
Undoubtedly, Frankenstein vs. the Creature from Blood Cove is
about as close as we will ever get to a Universal duel between
Karloff's monster against the Creature from the Black Lagoon. But it
also owes a lot to Roger Corman and Russ Meyer.
So, what
would you get if you crossed the Creature from the Black Lagoon, the
The Monster of Piedras Blancas and Darth Maul? Yep, the Creature from
Blood Cove. And yes, folks, there is a model kit that captures
this in a shelf sized diorama . . . Geometric Designs' Creature From
Blood Cove!
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The kit is pretty easy
to do, it comes in only four parts, and could be done in a weekend
even if you are a novice. The kit is pretty clean, though a few mold
lines must be cleared off slowly with a sharp Xacto blade. The parts
fit well and with some superglue and basic paints, you could have
yourself a very eye-catching piece.
The arms have a tab and
slot design, but it needs a little trimming with a hobby knife to fit
tightly. I want to support the arms a little, however, with a
technique called posting or pinning.
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In the photos below,
you can see that I am first trimming the tab off with a pair of
clippers (Xuron Rail Nips to be precise). Secondly, I am slowly
drilling a small hole in the center of the upper arm. Then, I clip a
small nail off near the head and using pliers insert it into the hole
with the point out and press the second part of the arm into place
gently. The resin is soft enough to push the whole thing in if you
don't leave more than a quarter inch of nail showing.
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You can
also drill a corresponding hole if need be in second part of the arm.
Either way, a little superglue will hold it together, and this can be
done fast if you use a product like Zip Kicker to accelerate the
process.
When the
creature is assembled, he still needs a couple of steps before
painting. First, you want to fill the gaps with putty. You can use
the Testor's white stuff if you can't find anything else, but you'll
get much better results with a two part putty like Aves.
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In the shots below, you
can see the basic process. First you take the two parts of the putty
and mold them together (boring photo, so I did not include it.) Then,
after it has hardened up for a few minutes, take small rolls and press
them into place with a toothpick (below left). Then, I use a small
screwdriver to imitate the texture of the kit. It takes a little
time and patience, but it is a simple thing you can do to improve the
look of the finished kit. (PS if you look at the creature's head, you
will see where I have put in a toothpick tip to repair a horn I broke
off . . . a little putty goes on this too!)
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Okay, we can let the
creature go for a while and turn our attention to the half dressed
female of the kit. Well, actually, I guess she is dressed, but there
is only half of her!
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I put a
coat of gray auto primer on the whole kit before painting, and when it
is dry, I turn to the beach scene. The victim gets an airbrush
coating of Lifetone's Bronze Flesh and the high parts (facial
features, breasts and arms) get a thin coat of Pale Flesh on top of
that.
The guts
are sprayed and then hand painted with Deep Wound Maroon from Badger
paints. The sand gets an airbrushing of Rotten Tooth Tan (also from
Badger).
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The next step is to
paint the rock a dark gray base coat and dry brush (more on that
later) on a lighter gray to bring out the highlights. I used Badger's
near black for the base and then dry-brushed Dolphin Gray from Apple
Barrel craft paints (acrylics found in Walmart).
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She also gets a coat of
hand painted Pearlized Purple from Createx on the bikini, Model Master
Sandalwood Beige on the hair and a little Jezebel Pink on the lips and
highlights of the guts.
She's had a rough day,
so I decide to move on to the creature at this point.
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Now folks, one lesson I
learned early on was that ya don't want to get your sticky fingers all
over a freshly painted monster, so I developed this all purpose
creature holder. It is basically just a screw in a stick, but it
holds the feet in place and I can turn it around from many angles to
get the whole kit covered.
So what are we using?
Gangrene and Cowards Yellow, both from Badger. That's it for the base
coat, though you should seal it at this point with Testor's Dulcote
spray.
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So, the
next step is to bring out some of the creature's features. First, I
spray on a thin coat of Coward's Yellow over the Gangrene on the face
and hands to give it a sense of skin tone.
Now, back
to dry brushing for a while. Using a little Apple Barrel Leaf Green,
I dip a flat brush into the paint to put a little on the tip and then
pull all of it right back off with a rag . . . because that's the way
I roll. When it is mostly off, brush it across the ridges of this kit
and you will be able to bring out those fine details. (Check the full
scale picture for the full effect.)
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You'll also notice that
the eyes have been shaded a little. I just put in a drop of white
with a toothpick and then gold . . . and then a line of black, but you
can't see that just yet!
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Okay, now we are ready
to wrap it up.
First of all, the
creature's horns and claws are painted with Americana Light
Buttermilk. The mouth is painted with Jezebel Pink by hand, then a
little thinned down Deep Wound Maroon is applied before the teeth are
touched with Buttermilk. Lots of times I would do an oil wash on a
kit at the end, but this one looks good like it is, capturing the over
the top look of the movie in general.
Next, we have the base.
Obviously, I watch a
lot of CSI, and this crime scene requires some blood.
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First, I
started with the widest spray and therefore the lightest colors. I
watered down some Jezebel Pink and spread it out from the body with a
thick brush and allowed that to dry.
Next, I
went in with Tamiya's transparent Red, which is also a nice glossy
finish. That is the second layer, a little closer to the body. Then,
on the guts, I mixed Deep Wound Maroon with Tamiya Transparent Red and
swabbed the spillage.
Next, the
kit gets the splatter effect. Simply dip the paint brush in a thinned
solution of each color and tap small amounts of it against the base of
the kit slowly. This will spray it and you can actually have a fair
amount of control.
A couple
of dots of light blue on white for the eyes, and we are ready to seal
and ship!
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There are a lot of
reasons to get this kit (and naturally, we want to encourage you to do
so), but something to keep in mind is that this is a real collector's
item. This is (and will be) the only kit ever produced based on
this film, so by all means snag it. Just drop by the Geo figures
page for more info.
And if you have
questions or want one built for you, email me at
editor@creaturescape.com
and we can work it out.
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